Doubs Valley and Haute Alsace— Eurovelo 6 - The bicycle from Atlantic to Black sea

Travel diary

From Dôle to Basel, from Franche-Comté to Switzerland, EuroVelo 6 follows the wild and steep-sided valley of the River Doubs, with its culinary delights and architectural jewels, such as the citadel of Besançon. It is an enchanting route for cycle tourists, despite the poor condition of the soon-to-be-resurfaced towpath along the Rhone-Rhine Canal, and the area’s extremely quiet country roads are ideal for cycling. A detour along the cycleway through the La Chaux Forest takes us to the Saline d’Arc and Senans. This 18th-century saltworks, built by Claude-Nicolas Ledoux, is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. After Senans, we come to the “Territoire de Belfort”, between the Vosges and the Jura, and then Sundgau, with its half-timbered farmhouses. The area between Dannemarie and Mulhouse is dotted with traditional Alsatian villages, such as Illfurth and Zillisheim. A 5-km detour takes us up to Altkirch, the capital of Sundgau: a lively town with a museum dedicated to the area’s culture and traditions.

Mulhouse is the last French city along EuroVelo 6 and its Automobile Museum is well worth a visit. From here, the route continues through the verdant Harth Forest to an industrial region that provides a stark contrast with the agricultural landscapes we have just left behind.

In every country they cross, cycle tourists can find lodgings with local people who offer bed, breakfast and, sometimes, veritable feasts. This type of accommodation allows travellers a glimpse into the daily lives of their hosts, who are often keen to show off their region’s culture and skills, as is the case of the farmers who have opened up their houses under the “Accueil à la ferme” scheme.

At the three-épi “Chez soi” (in France, épis, or wheatears, are the bed and breakfast equivalent of the hotel star system) visitors are immediately transported into an atmosphere where time is of little consequence and where life is enjoyed to the full. After a day on the bike, a riverside break in these peaceful surroundings is a well-deserved luxury: more expensive than camping, perhaps, but no dearer than a two-star hotel!
www.chezsoi.nl (cf. slide show)

In the village of Dannemarie, I am tempted off my bike by the sight of a beautiful, green farmhouse: the contrast between the sky, the dark timbering and that marvellous green will make a great a photo. I move closer, step back, and then risk a peak inside. Greeted by a cacophony of barking, I start to beat a smart retreat when the owner appears with a large smile on his face and immediately assures me that his dog is just being friendly! We end up having a long chat, the conversation punctuated by his gravelly laughter as I tell him about what I am doing and he tells me about the quality of the milk from his black and white cows, and the beauty of his village and the Sundgau region. I ask permission to take his photograph. Flattered and bashful, he adjusts his cap and straightens his trousers. He decides to stand beside his dog, which gives voice, louder than ever. I hesitate to get closer as, despite all his master’s assurances, I am intimidated by the animal’s long white fangs. Finally, we move away from Médor to take the photo. I would have preferred to include his wonderful cows in the picture, but they were in a neighbouring field contentedly chewing grass that was as green as our friendly farmer’s farmhouse! (cf. slide show)