The Atlantic Ocean forms the gateway to EuroVelo 6, a magnificent cycling adventure that will take us all the way to the shores of the Black Sea. We start our journey surrounded by the heady scent of the ocean, heading inland away from the sea, but accompanied by the ebb and flow of the tides as far as Ancenis.
A charming journey
A charming journey
The Atlantic Ocean forms the gateway to EuroVelo 6, a magnificent cycling adventure that will take us all the way to the shores of the Black Sea. We start our journey surrounded by the heady scent of the ocean, heading inland away from the sea, but accompanied by the ebb and flow of the tides as far as Ancenis. The Canal de la Martinière, designed to bypass the capricious Loire and its estuary, now provides a refuge for many species of birds and an irrigation basin for the surrounding farmland. Once past Nantes, cyclists follow the valley from château to château: a succession of fabulous edifices that turn any journey along the Loire into a procession of styles, eras and tastes. Faced with the magnificence of Saumur, Chinon, Azay-le Rideau, Amboise, Blois, Chambord and Chenonceaux, even the most blasé tourist is likely to run out of superlatives to describe these architectural wonders. It is not surprising that the entire area from Chalonnes to Sully-sur-Loire has been classified a World Heritage Site. However, many other pleasures await the Loire traveller, not least of which are the area’s superb wines, some sparkling, some still, such as Saumur, Anjou and Vouvray. At the ports of Montjean-sur-Loire and Savonnières, visitors can also admire the skills of the Loire boatmen, who continue to sail their traditional, flat-bottomed river craft, known as “gabares”. Occasionally, the route rises above the valley floor, taking the traveller through some of the tiny villages perched high above the Loire: the effort of the climb is more than compensated for by the feast awaiting the eyes!
An Irish biketourist at the beginning of his trip in Saumur
Heading out of Saumur towards Montsoreau, my eye was caught by the very impressive 1930s structure that houses the wine cellars of Gratien-Meyer, home of world-renowned, slightly sparkling wines. It was a Sunday morning, and the lure of that fabulous building and the famous bubbly it contains was too strong to resist. Denis Dupré, officiating behind the counter, has a quick word with each visitor, lines up two or three glasses and the festival begins. That morning saw me in the company of a German couple and a group of Dutch people who seemed to know the place well and who cheerfully set to the tasting ritual.
A little later, Denis Dupré gave me a tour of the vineyards on the hillside overlooking the river above Saumur, taking great delight in telling me about Gratien-Meyer’s wines. He then took me back down to the banks of the Loire and EuroVelo 6. On a field currently lying fallow, he got ready to open the little outdoor bar that Gratien-Meyer has set up to catch the trade from passing cyclists: offering snacks and drinks to encourage cyclists to make a detour to visit the famous winery.
“Tell me, Mr Dupré, is wine tasting really compatible with long-distance cycling?”
“You taste with your taste buds, after that, it is up to you whether or not you swallow the nectar!”