Basel opens the doors to the Rhine, one of Western Europe’s greatest rivers. The Rhine simultaneously connects countries, through its role as a major waterway, and separates them, where it marks national borders.
Travel diary
Basel opens the doors to the Rhine, one of Western Europe’s greatest rivers. The Rhine simultaneously connects countries, through its role as a major waterway, and separates them, where it marks national borders. In Basel, a dynamic city at the crossroads between Switzerland, Germany and France, the river is wide and imposing. Although the Rhine up to Lake Constance has been intensively developed (there are eleven power stations along this section of the river), its natural environment has been protected. After Möhlin, a succession of small towns and villages dot the German and the Swiss banks of the river and the traveller can, on a whim, quickly cross from one country to another over wood-covered bridges, such as the one in the spa town of Badsäckingen. A little further along the route, we come across the two Laufenburgs, the German town having been divided from its colourful Swiss twin in 1802, and the beautiful villages of Waldshut, Eglisau and Rheinau, surrounded by vineyards, fields of sunflowers and huge expanses of farmland. The Rhine Falls, just below Schaffhausen, provide yet another grandiose spectacle before the itinerary arrives at Stein am Rhein beside peaceful Lake Constance, the “soul of Europe”. EuroVelo 6 then heads north along a cycleway, following the shores of the Untersee through tiny fishing villages to Radolfzell. This restful and perfectly signposted section blends bucolic landscapes with a rich cultural heritage.
Bruno un viloniste à Badsäckingen
“L’aventure sur la paille” is the name of an association of Swiss farmers who have provided rustic accommodation for passing tourists for over ten years. There are a dozen such farms along EuroVelo 6, all of which offer bunkhouse accommodation in barns or stables, together with showers, toilets and a copious breakfast.
The Mahrer’s farm, near Möhlin, is a family business in which the father, mother and son all help out in the fields and dairy, which produces 700 litres of milk per day.
After a warm welcome from Reguthe Mahrer, I am shown my kingdom for the night: a small barn with indoor shower and toilet – pure luxury. A much larger stable has been converted into accommodation for groups, school children and large families. For Reguthe and her family, it is a way of diversifying their business from May to October. For passing cyclists, it is a taste of rural life with its chores, its smells and its tastes.
“In general, cycle tourists are inquisitive people who are truly interested in finding out how our farm works. It is really pleasant to talk with them”, says Reguthe Mahrer, as she waits for a late-arriving cyclist from Berlin.
In the morning, after a peaceful night, we meet at the breakfast table and share a copious breakfast of delicious farmhouse products: cheese, yoghurt and jam.
www.aventure-sur-la-paille.com (cf. slide show)
The ups and downs of history have produced a very strange situation in the German – or is it Swiss? – village of Büsingen. In fact, when in Büsingen, it is difficult to know which country you are in. The village belongs to the German State of Bade-Würtemberg but it is also in an enclave of the Swiss Canton of Schaffhausen. The village post office shows both the German and Swiss signs, as do the bus stops and the telephone boxes. Everything is double. Büsingen is the only German village where people spend Swiss francs and that you enter by crossing the border from Germany to Switzerland!
This particularity dates back to 1770, when Austria sold all the surrounding villages to the Canton of Zurich, keeping only Büsingen, which later became part of Bade-Würtemberg.
Two kilometres from Büsingen, back on EuroVelo 6, I came across a little riverside bistro, always a welcome sight for cycle tourists. The owner described the funny side of Büsingen’s situation, as well as some of the drawbacks. For example, the border is only open during the day – is everyone meant to go to bed at 10 o’clock? (cf. slide show)